I like to eat the chicken in the soup. I also rarely have time to simmer
the broth for 6-8 hours. And I like my broth hearty, without the need for
little cubes of chicken broth to enhance my own broth.
Matzo balls are a whole different
story--why do they come out like lead weights, you ask? Be sure to
refrigerate them before immersing in hot broth, is my one and only tip. I
leave the matzo balls to professionals, the bubbies who made this soup
famous. Really, if you just follow the recipe on the back of the matzo
meal package, paying careful attention to refrigerating the mixture, they
will come out light and fluffy, truly!
But anyone can do the broth...
1 whole
chicken (about 3 1/2 pounds) (you can also use chicken pieces, legs,
thighs, etc).
water--ONLY
ENOUGH TO COVER THE CHICKY
1 large whole
onion, peeled
2-4 celery stalks
3-4 carrots, sliced
Seasonings (to taste - see below)
Remove any giblets from the chicken and any large pieces of fat. Rinse the
chicken.
Drop the chicken in a soup pot large enough so the whole chicken fits
comfortably and snugly. A large fryer will fit pretty well in an eight
quart pot. Use ONLY enough water to cover the chicken and not an ounce
more. (You can always add liquid later, if you want or believe you need
to!) Add the onion.
Cover the pot and bring the soup to a boil. Once it is boiling, lower the
heat until the soup is simmering.
You will only have enough time to read one section of the N.Y. Times, or
one or two long articles; the soup is only going to simmer for ONE HOUR,
at this point. Before you go out, or go to bed, remove it from the heat,
let it cool a bit, and put it in the refrigerator. Once it starts to cool
off--only enough so you don't scald your fingers--remove all the breast
meat and maybe some meat from the thighs. Put the bones back in the pot.
In a couple of hours, or next morning, when you get up, there should be a
nice layer of fat that has hardened on the surface of the soup. This you
should remove. What to do with it is another story. All of our esteemed
grandmas, known respectfully and lovingly as bubbies (because they were
our good friends, not just ancient and esteemed relatives), used the
chicken fat as the basis for a Jewish delicacy called Schmaltz.
In homage to the closure of the Second Avenue Deli in Lower Manhattan
during the first week of 2006, I encourage you to take the chicken skin,
throw it into the hot chicken fat, and crisp up the skin. Yes, you can put
it on some paper towels once it gets golden brown to soak up a bit of that
fat. But this is about joy as the path to true health, not about survival
of the body and its organs, which can be overvalued by the materialists.
You aren't a materialist, are you?!
Put the schmaltz on a cracker, call your cardiologist, and tell him or her
you intend to live to be 675 years old, like the patriarchs, and wash it
all down with some good vodka. When you see Shem bin Noah, the famous
rescue greyhound of Brickyard, remember he is named after people who lived
hundreds of years on foods that tasted good!
Once the fat is skimmed, put the pot back on the stove and start the
simmering all over again. But now you can add the carrots, celery, etc. If
you add anything else, you are a heretic. I love heretics. Feel free to
add any form of plant life that strikes your fancy, but remember it is
going to simmer for another hour.
Add the seasoning, now. For me, salt, and pepper are a must. Feel your
blood pressure pushing upwards! You are alive! Now, some bay leaves. The
more timid among us, are satisfied with dill. Try them both, and add
thyme, too; they all work fine, for me, and my relatives never seem to
complain!Experiment with gusto, use too much, and get booed away from the
table--or use just a little bit of one herb, and accept your compliments
knowing you have taken the easy way.
As you can imagine, I don't encourage being shy about using a lot of spice
and herbs for a pretty big pot of soup, and I also remind you that enough
salt makes the soup's ingredients work together in harmony. Let it
simmer for only one more hour. It will be even better, tomorrow, it is
true, as the seasonings blend with the stock. But you are trying to
preserve the flavor of the chicken, too!
Remove all the vegetables except the carrots, if you are a traditionalist.
True, the celery is just kind of stringy and the parsnips--well, you
decide. Let the soup cool enough so you can get the bones separated from
the remaining meat, and discard the bones at this point. Put all the
chicken meat back in the soup, cutting it up as you wish. That is a key
aspect of this recipe, so I cannot encourage you in the direction of
chicken salad sandwiches.
Whatever recipe you use, you will end up with a lovely golden broth that
cures all ills and brings pleasure second only to a good roll in the hay.
And remember, all good things are better the second time around!